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croppincrystie Offline
#1 Posted : Thursday, February 02, 2012 1:06:30 PM(UTC)
croppincrystie

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i am normally a very crafty person, but this yudu has whooped my butt!

problem #1 - black tshirt and the color is faded to a very faint distressed look, not what i wanted, looks neat but not for this shirt

problem #2 - how do you get your shirt to all line up the same? diff sizes, ect...some designs are more to left, rights, ect

problem #3 - what is the trick to desiding where to put you design on your emulsion? do you put the emulsion to the top of the screen and the burn your design where you "think" it should go??? there has to be a rule of thumb.

I am doing 7 robotics tshirts for my sons club, they look terrible!!!! the red has faded to an orange. nothing consistant about the shirts? has anyone else had problems with black shirts? i am using speedball, no yudu red at M's.

how long do you wait before you iron and at what setting, low?

getting very discouraged!
Nadia withglitteringeyes.blogspot.com Offline
#2 Posted : Thursday, February 02, 2012 8:37:14 PM(UTC)
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I have never screened on black shirts so I am no help for #1. I have heard that it is problematic to get opacity so I just haven't tried it. Hopefully someone else will have ideas.

#2 and #3- I just burn the image on the middle of the screen. I don't use platens the way they were designed. Rather, I just lay the item on top. One thing Shannon Lerner (of PC) told us at a meetup (where I learned to Yudu) is that you can place old cricut cutting mats inside your shirts and just lay them on the platen-- that's what she does when she does her son's team shirts. I have never tried that but she says that makes it go quicker.

I just eye-ball it for shirts. For napkin corners where that REALLY have to be exact, I put marks on the platen and line up the item to the marks. Again, I just put stuff on top of the platan and not place the platen inside.

I don't like Speedball because I think it is too thin... I use Yudu, Plaid, and Ryonet. Ryonet red keeps its color, but again, I have never used it on black-- just other colors.

Sorry not to be more helpful.



Nadia withglitteringeyes.blogspot.com Offline
#3 Posted : Sunday, February 12, 2012 11:06:22 AM(UTC)
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OK - I have now used the Yudu on black. I will say it took two passes to get it to show up! I mixed three inks together (Yudu brown, Plaid OMG Green, and Yudu Silver Argent) to get a pearlescent celery green for some American Girl doll t-shirts. Double passes are tricky because it is easy for the second pass to mess up the design if the shirt was 'pulled' along with the squeegee, but for the most part, it worked just fine.



Not sure why, but with the color I mixed, I had to do three passes on white.
NewfyMom Offline
#4 Posted : Sunday, February 12, 2012 4:55:31 PM(UTC)
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So registration marks may be necessary to get the proper opacity (heavy white) look on to a black shirt. You would lay down your first pull. Allow the ink to dry and then put the shirt back on and go again. Heavier lines would work better than an outline. A registration mark is a small crossed lines in each corner of your film. The transparency should line up perfectly and then you match them when you are using the screen. You would want to make sure you don't get ink near them unless they work into your design. Which if I was doing a robot shirt is may look like engineering schematics to have registration marks. Just sayin' No body has to know you needed them to do the print.

Yes, dark shirts are the worst!!

For lining up shirts I have a middle mark on my platen in the blue area that shows me where to put the shirt tag. I carefully lay my shirt flat, line up shoulder seams and carefully line up the shirt. Sleeves are folded under the platen to keep them from getting ink on them. The more time you spend in prepping the better the results. Pulling should be the final step and goes quickly. Set up is the tricky part.

As far as ink changing color....I'm not sure what products you are using. I haven't had THAT problem. I recommend PC inks, Speedball or Jaquard. The rest are unknown factors to me.

Where to put your image on the screen. First, I don't use my sticky part on my platen, ever. Just me. I leave the white sheet on and work off that. This means you will need to put some paper in your shirt to make sure you don't have ink bleed through but when I am doing a lot of shirts it goes a lot quicker. I used a Sharpie and marked through my screen the edges of my screen as it sits on the platen. This tells me where my screen and shirt will come together. A screen can have multiple images on it. See my Photo Gallery post and read how I did poster and matching cards on the same screen. If these are little boys you could get creative and put two robots on one screen with one head up and another head down with the bottoms of the shirts meeting in the middle. But that sounds like something I would do and maybe to do when you aren't already feeling like you are going crazy.

Dry the ink till it doesn't come off on your finger. I usually do 15 mins to 30 mins. Then High Hot, No Steam, iron with a paper between the iron and print.

Let us know how it turned out!! I'll bump my photo galler post again. A super seller knocked it down. Also I highly recommend the FAQs. You may find a tid bit in there from all my mistakes. I've made a ton...just keep at it. It gets a lot better with time.
NewfyMom Offline
#5 Posted : Sunday, February 12, 2012 4:57:58 PM(UTC)
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1 more thing. Nadia reminded me of. A lot of people put down a white layer and then put ink over ink to create opacity. See my Puppy Love Shirt. I created a white image and then put black spots on the white ink to create a truer value in the black. Building up your ink layer might be necessary.
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